A traditional northern hemisphere winter treat is the ultimate slow food - as well as fast.

IT'S late autumn in the Adelaide Hills town of Stirling and the leaves have turned the corner towards their seasonal romantic reds and crimsons. There's a damp forest scent in the air, then the seductive smell of charry smoke and toast. It's roasted chestnut time in the main street and Quentin Jones is at it again, his 20th year on the job, every Saturday and Sunday, rain and hail, shine or snow.

He's as much a part of the district's cool-climate attractions as the falling leaves. Cars screech to a halt and whole families burst out to get their winter's treat - for many, the chestnut man is reminiscent of street food cultures from Italy and Greece to Japan and Taiwan. The spread of customers has grown over the decades, says Quentin - as much as his knowledge of the ancient chestnut, which began from scratch when he bought Nirvana Farm at Heathfield after the 1983 Ash Wednesday fires.

The few trees on the property have grown to 80, along with walnuts and hazelnuts, and summer crops of raspberries, gooseberries, mulberries and red, white and black currants, all of which are available during season from the farm gate on Longwood Rd.

But it's the chestnuts that have made Quentin a landmark as he roasts them over a rotating basket created to cook a lot of nuts in a short time. "I tell a lot of the children who stop that chestnuts are the world's first fast food that's actually good for you," Quentin says.

"They're a snack and they're healthy."

They also are available fresh from the farm. Many Europeans especially make the pilgrimage during winter to satisfy the needs of their traditional recipes, which can range from savoury to sweet, often with roasted wild birds, or in hearty dessert pies and cakes.

Leftovers after Quentin's Sunday-afternoon roasting business also find their way on to the bar at a local hotel as he has a beer to end the day, or they go home to go later into soups, stews and even curries, where they add a unique textural difference and nutty sweetness.

Its multicultural spread is one of the joys of the chestnut, Quentin says.

"I love meeting the people on the street and learning about their traditions. It's now also part of the Adelaide Hills culture," he adds, his partner Deb Cantrill a convener of the region's Slow Food movement.

"Hot roasting chestnuts on the street is the epitome of Slow Food," he says. "Even though it's done quickly."

On a winter's night . . .

You know winter's chill is about to hit when the first mounds of shiny brown chestnuts appear in the markets and greengrocers.

Chestnuts hit their peak in May when you can enjoy their robust flavour simply roasted, or incorporated in sweet or savoury dishes.

Hilton Adelaide executive chef Simon Bryant says he enjoys cooking with the unusual produce.

"When I was a kid in England, we never ate them, just played conkers with them," he says.

"I got interested in them when I ate them again in the Central Market, from the guy who roasts them out there some Friday nights.

"They are something that is definitely worth the wait all year. Big, earthy, nutty flavour, filling in winter dishes and a lush creamy texture.

"The flour is a great gluten-free thickener for casseroles or stews, they are great tossed through winter salads and the spiny cupule that contains the nuts looks incredible when they arrive freshly picked . . . like something from a different planet."

Simon has featured a couple of chestnut dishes on The Brasserie menu this month, which has been declared chestnut month by Chestnuts Australia Inc.

How to prepare chestnuts

Cut - Lie chestnut on its flat side and cut or score halfway around the nut, piercing both the outer shell and inner skin.

Cook - To microwave: place layer of cut chestnuts in a covered container on high for 2-3 minutes until shells open and flesh is soft.

To roast, bake or grill: place cut chestnuts on oven tray and cook at 200C or under a moderate grill for 15 minutes until shell opens.

To boil or steam: place cut chestnuts in a pan of cold water or steamer, cover, bring to boil and simmer for 15-20 minutes until shells open and flesh is soft.

Peel - Immediately wrap hot, cooked chestnuts in a tea towel for a few minutes and, while still hot, peel off outer shell and inner brown skin.

Enjoy - Season and enjoy hot or add to soups, stir-fries, vegetables, pasta, risotto and desserts.

Simon Bryant's chestnut souffle

180g shelled chestnuts
120ml vegetable stock
50g butter
2 egg whites
Salt and black pepper
1 tbsp chopped parsley
1 tsp lemon zest
Lemon juice
12 leaves wild rocket